While I confess to having taken the train to this ancient city 2400m up in the Andes (see previous blog) those who have hiked it are known to rave on for years. Firstly you do have the very able assistance of local Peruvian porters who run on ahead like gazelles and set up camp for when you arrive. But you’ll need to pack strategically as there is no mule or pack-horse to hoof all your shoes and sundresses.

You'll meet this lady on your hike

But on that final morning when you come over the mountain and see the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu stretched out in front of you, it’ll all be worth it.

Incredibly, Machu Picchu escaped the Spanish invasion and wasn’t even discovered until 1911 when American explorer, Hiram Bingham, who was skulking about these parts, met a local farmer who he paid 1 sol (45 cents) to lead him up for a look. At the time a Quechua family were still living here in the primitive city. I can only imagine the fright they must have had when the white man came crashing through the rainforest.

You’ll need a good level of fitness and be in good health, although altitude sickness strikes randomly (and didn’t strike me at all). You’ll see spectacular sights all along the way to Machu Picchu. It really is a beautiful trail. The ruins along the way are not as amazing as the famous hidden city but are still incredibly stunning. And although in essence you are ‘roughing it’ by camping, the food is super impressive. It’s amazing what they can come with on a small stove!

Here are some great tips for hiking the Inca Trail from Laura Barker, Adventure Specialist (wouldn’t you love her job?) at Harvey World Travel:

Don’t forget:

The city hides under clouds

• Book well in advance as numbers are limted – I met a backpacker in Cusco who hadn’t booked and was waiting for weeks for a cancellation.
• Good walking shoes/boots that are well worn in (blisters are no one’s friend).
• It’s a lot of up and down hills so if you have even slightly dodgy knees take (or buy when you’re there) walking poles. These can be purchased easily from the markets on the first morning at Ollantaytambo.
• Take ear plugs. The tent walls will not muffle the snorer next door. And yes, he will be there!
• Take a bladder water carrier (Camelback) to pop in your rucksack. It’s much easier than having to get your bottle out time you need a sip.
• Mornings and evenings can be chilly at certain times (I went in June) so take a good fleece/warm windproof jacket.
• Take water-free soap and wet wipes – there ain’t no sinks up there on the trail!
• Don’t worry about taking snacks/sweets from home. They have loads of things you can buy there – and probably cheaper!

The trek operates 10 months of the year between March and January.

When the clouds clear

The 1 hour flight from Lima gave me plenty of time to become paranoid about the effects of the altitude that might befall me. It strikes randomly and your level of fitness seems to bear no significance (which I took as a comfort) but aside from feeling a little puffed after climbing a few stairs to my hotel room and a slight headache the next morning (which could just as easily have been caused by the delicious pisco sours), I didn’t notice any undue effects.

Tourists making the pilgrimmage to Machu Picchu spend on average 2 days in Cusco to acclimatise and to have a look around the Sacred Valley and fortress town of Ollantaytambo. The history is gob smacking and such cool adobe architecture makes you wish you brought extra memory cards. There are markets selling rugs (I’m still gutted I didn’t buy one) and knick knacks (I bought a chess set with Inca and Spanish pieces – llamas for horses), art and handcrafts. I bought woollen finger puppets from this little girl who asked for a dollar and postcards from a boy who, when he found out I was from New Zealand, shouted “capital city Wellington!” That impressed me so I forked out another dollar.

Just arriving at Cusco airport where men in national costume played the pan flute while we waited for our luggage was a highlight.

5 finger puppets for $2

Evidence of Spanish invasion is everywhere, even in the Cathedral of Cusco where there is a painting of the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata. Eleven of the disciples and Jesus are all depicted as lighter skinner Spaniards but Judas is darker and apparently Peruvian. There are other Peruvian and Spanish influences in the painting like the tableware and the view out the window, but my favourite was the meal they were all eating: roasted guinea pig – head, feet and all! In fact this is the national dish and is a delicacy. You’ll find it on the menu at many restaurants. I confess to not partaking, although probably would have if it wasn’t so expensive.

After a couple of days in Cusco you can start hiking the 4-day Inca Trail or take the train. I took the train. We left at 9am and rocked and rolled for an hour and a half from Ollyantaytambo, (the train had started in Cusco). It was the 4th that morning to Aguas Calientes, the town at the bottom of the mountain where hotels and markets thrive. Hotel porters met us and relieved us of our luggage right there on the tracks and we immediately boarded buses for the scary ride up the mountain road (several times having to back up 50m to let oncoming buses down).

Machu Picchu is breathtaking, and that’s not just due to the altitude. It was a typically misty day – this is rainforest after all. But every so often the clouds would clear and the sun would stream over this ancient city set on the side of the mountain. The stone work is incredible when you consider the size of these boulders and no machinery to split or lift them. I stayed the night in Aguas Calientas and came up again the next morning before the crowd just to stand in awe once more.

Buying wares from the train

About 1000 people per day clamber over these ruins which escaped the Spanish invasion. You’ll need to wear hiking boots – not the stilleto sling-backs a stupid blonde from Scandinavia was teetering around in, and I wouldn’t be surprised if sometime soon tourists have to be stopped as I was told these priceless ruins are slipping.

Machu Picchu hides under the clouds

The Hiram Bingham luxury train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes has also closed and is not expected to be operational until June.

But authorities have been working round the clock to open a new route which should be completed by March combining paved and unpaved roads as well as rail links.

The new route will take longer, between 7.5 – 9 hours from Cusco instead of 4, and will pass through Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Malaga, Santa Teresa and Aguas Calientes.

Travel wholesaler South America Tourism Office (SATO) says that Machu Picchu is currently closed to the public and it is not guaranteed it will be re-opened by April, but they do stress there is plenty more to see in Peru, including more archeological sites that you may not have seen otherwise.