I’ve been to Bangkok several times, and the last time I was hosting one of my tours, so I made sure to see all the highlights, plus leave room for shopping, cocktails and massages!
These days I’m focusing my life on less FOMO and more SLO-MO. So with that in mind, use this 4-day Bangkok itinerary as a great place to start for ideas, but also give yourself time to sit riverside with a cocktail in hand, or enjoy some cheap Pad Thai and watch the world go by.
This itinerary isn’t too taxing, but has a good sprinkle of Thai culture, some fabulous shopping, a massage (or two), a rooftop drink (to take a mortgage out for) and some delicious food.
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Where to stay in Bangkok
I decided to stay at the wonderful Shangri-La Bangkok on the Chao Phraya River, because last time I visited Bangkok you could barely move in the peak hours on the busy streets of Chinatown, and Khao San Road (famous as the backpacker hub) is not my cup of tea any more.
Even a tuk tuk can’t get through in a reasonable time! It also has the best breakfasts I’ve seen in a long time (except Koh Samui – where we went next!)
Also, just in front of the hotel are lots of little places for a cheap massage or foot treatment, small restaurants and tailors to get clothes made.
The Shangri La is a luxury five-star hotel, yet by Western standards, is still affordable (around NZ$450 per night/US$260) – so why wouldn’t we!
It also meant we took water taxis to ICONSIAM shopping mall across the river, or could nip down to Riverside for our buffet dinner cruise, or up the other way to Asiatique for shopping and dining options.
Day 1 in Bangkok
Arrival (it’s a shambles arriving with so many taxi and tour companies, signs waving or on the railings. If you don’t have a pre-booked transfer, you can negotiate a rate with many operators. Just ask around to ensure the best deal). You can also arrange an affordable private transfer here >
Check in to your hotel and explore the grounds, pool, the outdoor restaurant and bars. We met for a cocktail and nibbles at the Long Bar, on the lobby level, but out the front on the riverside there is another lovely bar too – which we met at every other night!
Slo-mo tip: If you fancy some delicious food with an authentic vibe, walk to Jack’s Bar next door and grab a Singa beer and some Pad Thai noodles, right on the river’s edge, to get into the Thailand groove watching the boats go by.
Dinner that night was at the Shangri La’s gorgeous Thai restaurant at the hotel, sitting riverside. Just sublime.
Recommendation: try the Shangri La’s caipirinha cocktail made with brown sugar!
Day 2 in Bangkok
Today is the shopping day!
After the most amazing buffet breakfast, included in our room rate, sitting on the edge of the river (or inside for those who found it too hot), we took the complimentary hotel water taxi across the busy Chao Phraya river to ICONSIAM shopping mall. This six-storey mall has everything you need, and lots you don’t!
Walk through the ground floor into a gigantic “market” and very impressive food hall. They have even built a river into part of it to give the river markets vibe. There are so many choices here, it’s almost impossible to decide.
My tactic is small tastes here and there. If you haven’t yet tried mango sticky rice, this is your chance. But don’t stay here, go back to the entrance area and head up the six floors for more shopping, including expensive luxe brands. The very top floor is filled with local designers.
This afternoon, if you still need to shop, walk down to the local BTS SkyTrain next to the Shangri La, and take public transportation to Central Siam. There are three shopping malls here, Siam Paragon, Central World and Central Siam Square about a 20-minute train ride away.
If you want some clothes made, there are plenty of tailors all around the hotel too, but you’ll need to allow at least three days for fittings.
In my honest opinion, I wouldn’t go for anything that needs to be tailored. Things like pants and fitted dresses are risky, especially on a time constraint. But you can’t go wrong with sundresses, tunic tops, even jackets that are not too fiddly.
River Dinner Cruise
Tonight head out on a dinner cruise on the river! This is classic Bangkok and you’ll see several river boats gliding up and down every evening with live music on the open top decks and plenty of delicious food served from buffet stations around the boat.
There are plenty of cruise companies offering these in the Thai capital city, and they’re about two hours long. You’ll meet the boat at a meeting point on your ticket (maybe in front of ICONSIAM or across the river at Riverside).
Book an outdoor table on the rooftop level for the most amazing skyline views (if it rains they have air-conditioned space to move you indoors).
You’ll pass the fabulous, lit-up Grand Palace, Wat Arun and turn around at Rama VIII Bridge, and you can bet there’ll be dancing on the way back!
My picks for dinner cruises are:
Bangkok Chaophraya Cruise – the newest boat on the river
Royal Princess Dinner Cruise – this is the #1 seller on the river and the one we went on, but you really can’t go wrong with any of them.
Yodsiam Sightseeing Cruise – for a smaller boat with unlimited beer and only light snacks. This top-rated cruise is also just an hour long, so will suit people who want all the beer and less time on the water (!)
Day 3 in Bangkok
Two famous markets: the Floating Market and the Railway Market
They are located about a two-hour drive out of the city, and you can do both on a tour in the one day. It’s best to book a tour that will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel, and a guide who can tell you want the hang is going on, especially at the railway market!
We departed at 9am on a private tour arranged by our hotel concierge to return us earlier than the group tours. The other ones are a full day and pick up from 7.30am return about 6pm and include iconic temple visits, and some had dress fittings to get to!
The market is filled with food, clothes and souvenirs, squeezed along the rail way tracks. Eight times a day, the train runs through and the awnings have to be lowered and people ushered out of the way.
Your guide will plan your trip around the train (which is why we did the train before the floating market), and when you get there, tell them to find you the best places for photos, so you can be in position in plenty of time.
You’ll duck under awnings and step back and forth over the tracks. But three minutes before the train comes a horn will sound and all the sellers will fold down their awnings and move their produce back as the train is wider than the tracks. Be in position by at least five minutes before so you get a good pot.
People stand on the tracks right up until the last minute taking photos, which freaked me out! We bought two cups of chopped watermelon from a vendor and that secured us a bench seat in front of her fish monger friend. It’s the most extraordinary sight!
From there we drove to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, which has been here in some form for over 60 years. We hopped into narrow long boats with a driver at the back who expertly zoomed us through the canals, slowing at waterside stalls to buy hats, bags or beers, then zooming off again.
We ended where our guide had driven to meet us, and had another hour or so to browse the many stalls and buy art and bits and pieces.
Get your tour market tour tickets here >
Michelin Street Food Tour
Tonight’s dinner was a Michelin Star Street Food Tour by Tuk Tuk, whizzing through the streets in with our drivers expertly steering us through the traffic to each stop.
Our guide explained who we were meeting at each stop (some famous local chefs), and what we were trying, which was lots of delicious and “interesting” food!
I highly recommend it actually, and having a guide with us meant we knew it was the best food in Chinatown as she knew what to order.
Book the Michelin Street food tour by tuk tuk here >
Day 4 in Bangkok
Long boat tour of the klongs
This morning we headed out on a two-hour klong tour of the canals. I had the hotel concierge book two long boats which picked us up right at the Shangri La dock. It cost 2000 baht per boat (about NZ$100).
I’ve done this boat ride a few times before and just love it. You speed along the Chao Phraya River and turn into a canal to wait in a lock. Then out you pop into residential, canal-front neighbourhoods, cruising past houses that look like they’re about to fall into the water, interspersed by some new-builds.
Book a long boat klong tour here >
Grand Palace Tour
This afternoon was free so some of my group went on a Grand Palace and temple tour.
They loved touring through the grounds and buildings of the Grand Palace complex and the temple of the Emerald Buddha, aka Wat Phra Kaew, with a guide as they learned so much.
The royal palace has been the official residence of Thailand’s kings since 1782, and well worth visiting. But King Rama X resides at Dusit palace, leaving the Grand Palace for official ceremonies.
They also visited the Reclining Buddha inside Wat Pho, across the road from the palace.
I have been a couple of times before, so today was Thai massage from one of the many small businesses near our hotel for me!
Book a city sightseeing tour including Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun guided tour here >
Rooftop Cocktails
Tonight we had amazing cocktails at Sky Bar, the rooftop bar on the 64th floor of Lebua Tower where the dress code is “beautiful people”.
Located only about a 200m walk from Shangri La, past tailors where some of the group had fittings scheduled, this is the highest rooftop in Bangkok.
The cocktails are eye-wateringly expensive, but think of it like this: there is no cover charge, so we came up to the 64th floor and spent about NZ$100 each on a cocktail and a view!
Drinks range from 1150 Thai baht to 2700 for champagne cocktails, or 9,100 Thai baht (US$290) for the Hangovertini reserve, which starred in Hangover 2 made with Johnny Walker Blue Label King George V wishkey.
A good time to arrive is late afternoon, as the sun sets quite early here – between 6.pm and 6.50pm year round. Maybe stay for a nibble at one of the restaurants up here too.
The sky was threatening a thunderstorm and the wildest thing happened, our hair stood up on end due to the static in the air! You can’t see it very well on my blonde hair, that’s why I asked the waitress for a selfie to see her black hair reaching for the clouds!
Dinner tonight was a relaxed one back at the hotel. There are some really great restaurants right outside too which are delicious and super cheap. In fact I also found the Shangri La prices to be very affordable.
Inside tip: mango sticky rice is a classic dish and totally to die for!
Day 5 : we flew to Koh Samui for 4 nights (not long enough) for fabulous rest and relaxation in a luxury resort with a step-in pool from our veranda that had a swim-up bar.
Read my 4-day Koh Samui post here including my hotel recommendation.
Other things to do in Bangkok
If you’d like more ideas for things to do in Bangkok, you’ll like this post of 14 more things to fill in your days. Things like seeing Muay Thai kick boxing, doing a cooking class, shopping at the monster Chatuchak Weekend Market (the largest market in the world), or finding a luxury spa.
The the water taxi along the river to Asiatique to the night market, especially if it’s too hot in the day to be out at markets. It’s open from 5pm, and not far from Shangri La.
If you like silks, a visit to the Jim Thompson House Museum, restaurant and boutique is a lovely way to spend a couple of hours. He is very famous across southeast Asia, and vanished in Malaysia.
Take a day trip to the former capital of Siam, Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage site. On this tour you’ll see four temples and also have lunch.
Getting from the Airport to your Hotel
The best way to get from the airport to your hotel is by private transfer, and they’re not expensive, because it’s crazy at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport with taxi drivers and operators holding up signs and shouting.
Organise your airport transfer here >
For info on the best time to travel to Thailand, I wrote this post.
