I wasn’t sure what to expect of Salt Lake City so landed with my limited horizons waiting to be expanded. And expanded they were as we drove into the city dwarfed at the foothills of the surrounding mountains.
The very loose impression I had of Utah and its capital city was of Mormons, multiple spouses, no coffee, coke or alcohol. I actually didn’t mind that I was probably going to forfeit my liquid vices as we’d already had two weeks travelling from Palm Springs to Orlando and Dallas, where plenty of imbibing had been partaken, so a week of teetotalling Mormonism would be fine.
The first purchase we made upon picking up our 4WD from Alamo at the airport to start our 6-day roadie was a Starbucks coffee. The second, a beer.
Salt Lake City’s hip and growing bar scene:
Brew bars are popping up all over town, and sitting down at Squatters with Paul Marshall from Ski Utah, I picked his brains about some of the best bars in the city that he has recently moved to from New York City.
Squatters is the original micro brewery in town, largely credited for paving the way into the current pub scene. There are several of them around the state and they also serve food, gastro-pub style. We sat outside in the balmy summer evening discussing everything from beer to sports and the Zion Curtain (see below!)
Under Current is brand new and just opened. Under Current Club is the little sister of popular seafood restaurant Current Restaurant (great oysters are hard to get in Utah, says Paul). Expect signature cocktails in industrial decor. A Seattle dockside bar serving crafted cocktails in Salt Lake City.
Beer Bar is a cool casual beer garden with picnic bench style seating and Paul reckons it has the best beer selection in SLC. It has a pretty steady night scene and is a great spot to meet people. It’s also the new sister of Bar X next door which offers a unique and fun cocktail list.
The Tavernacle See what they did there? I like a dueling piano bar and this place is it. Warning: it’s also a karaoke bar (!). It’s been here 11 years and promises a rumpty sing-along night out.
Annex – This bar is not in downtown Salt Lake City like the others – it is in the Sugarhouse area, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city. It’s the newest gastro pub in the city by Epic Brewery with their 35 different beers paired with eclectic dishes from the kitchen.
Cheers to You is a local dive bar “where everybody knows your name”, to quote the opening line from the hit TV show Cheers. If you’re part of the neighbourhood you can join the Mug Club and keep yours behind the counter. They have pool tables, video games and sport on the TV.
Whiskey Street The name harks back to pre-prohibition as the street where Gentiles could have a dram and where even devout Mormon leader and settler of the western America, Brigham Young, used to purchase his spirits. Today it’s a lively cocktail bar and serves great food.
What the heck is the Zion Curtain?
My fears of an alcohol-free Utah were not entirely unfounded. Being a Mormon state (Salt Lake City is to Mormonism what the Vatican is to Catholicism), there are strict liquor laws in place. Buying a beer or a wine in a bar or restaurant is pretty straight forward. But if you want a cocktail or a mixer, the barman must not pour it front of you, lest a child in your midst be led astray. Behind the “Zion Curtain” (typically a frosted glass screen) they must go to pour your gin and tonic – with an exact measure too by the way.
Another absurdity was when we had finished dinner in the restaurant and wanted to take our wine through to the attached bar to watch the basketball game, our waiter had to physically walk our drinks through to the next room and give them back to us once we’d arrived safely. He also told me that you cannot have two alcoholic beverages in front of you at any one time. So, for example, when a group decides to do shots while they have a cocktail on the table, he must pick up the cocktail glass and hold it while they down their shots, then put the glass back on the table! Funny.
If you’re planning on a visit to Utah, the national parks are incredible. Here’s my photo blog on stunning Bryce Canyon >>
And here’s my photos from my river hike up the Narrows in Zion National Park >>